Rome is probably the most celebrated city on Earth, and you're spoilt for choice. Simply wandering through the centre is an unforgettable experience, and you'll be amazed at how much there is to discover in so small an area.
After the Stadio Olimpico, why not view some of Ancient Rome's stadia? Experiencing the atmosphere of a sold-out Olimpico really helps you imagine the Colosseum as it was, packed with crowds baying for blood, or cheering their favourites. A short walk away is the Circo Massimo (photo at foot of page), the massive chariot arena. (In the summer of 2001 this green space was filled with about 3 million celebrating Roma fans.) Organised into teams (the Greens etc.) the charioteers had followers just like any football club, who would fight each other on the streets of Rome. Right in the heart of the Centro Storico, the unmissable Piazza Navona still follows the shape of the ancient stadium which once occupied the spot. Just outside the northern end of the Piazza, you can see some of the remains of Domitian's original stadium. Nowadays the Piazza is the tourist heart of Rome, with three beautiful fountains, lovely buildings and a plethora of cafes and restaurants where you can sit and watch the world go by.
The Centro Storico is packed with charming medieval streets and well-hidden palazzi. Particularly on a warm evening, it's lovely just to explore the lanes and squares. Campo dei Fiori is a good place for eating and drinking, while if you head past the awe-inspiring Pantheon you'll come to via del Corso which is Rome's Oxford Street. Close at hand are the Spanish Steps – climb up towards the large park of the Villa Borghese for good views over the rooftops – and the Trevi Fountain, overpowering in its scale.
If you're into the ancient remains of Rome's past, the Forum is an absolute must. Probably the most richly resonant historical location in the universe, you can spend hours wandering the ruins where the Caesars once strolled. The Palatine, where rich Romans lived in luxury, is also fantastic, with a truly unmatchable atmosphere. And one of the best sites of all is the Pantheon, a perfectly-proportioned haven of peace in the heart of a changed city.
If you want some fresher air, take a bus to the via Appia Antica, a fabulously atmospheric road lined with the graves of wealthy Senators and their families, and now set in an archeological park. You can walk for miles over the original paving stones, admiring the ruins to either side. Here too is the best-preserved of Rome's chariot circuses, the Circus of Maxentius. Far more than at the Circo Massimo, you can imagine the electric atmosphere of ancient Rome's sporting events.
For religious or historical reasons (or to purchase kitsch souvenirs) you'll probably want to visit the Vatican and St Peter's. This is where the Azzurri come to be blessed by the Pope before important championships.
Good days out from Rome include Tivoli, where you can marvel at the OTT fountains of the Villa d'Este and at Hadrian's gigantic palace complex, and the preserved Roman port of Ostia Antica. The Etruscan city of the dead at Cerveteri is another fascinating day trip from Rome.
If you want to learn more about the history of Rome before you travel, the following books are all excellent, entertaining insights into the city's past.
 | Christopher Hibbert's Rome: The Biography of a City gallops through
the entire history of Rome in a fast and fascinating ride.
 | Suetonius's account of the lives of the Caesars is scandalous, libellous and wildly entertaining.
 | I, Claudius by Robert Graves is the classic work of fiction about Ancient Rome, rich in intrigue and period detail.
| | |
**
www.italyheaven.co.uk offers more advice about tourist sights in Rome, as well as day trips from the city.
